December 2 to 5, 2019
140 km north of Luang Prabang
>3h trip (mini van)
We were off to Muang Ngoi that we would reach after a van trip to Nong Khiaw and a 1h boat ride.
Before reaching Nong Khiaw, I was made aware that the water level was dangerously low due to a dam reservoir that had been filled up a couple days ahead. Boats could not reach Muang Ngoi and were stopping 3km before where a Tuk Tuk was taking the passengers.
Our minivan
Once we got to Nong Khiaw, a Tuk Tuk dropped us off at the boat landing and we confirmed the information. “No boat today or tomorrow, maybe in 2 days”. We didn’t have to be in Muang Ngoi and found that the river, the bridge, the mountains were beautiful so we decided to stay.
For the first time on the trip, we had no booking for the night so we went guesthouse hunting, visiting 3 rooms and selecting 2 adjunct bungalows for the 4 of us. The best feature was the hammocks on the balconies looking over the river that were perfectly ergonomic for naps :)
Our guesthouse
Time stopped in Nong Khiaw and we took in all this lush nature around us. We did nothing special except for visiting Delilah’s (another guesthouse held by a kiwi, aka from New Zealand), where the girls played with board games while Salah played some guitar but also where we enjoyed delicious cakes (like banoffee, key lime pie, and a decadent brownie topped with ice cream), Coralie getting a shoulder-back massage (much needed after carrying our backpacks), taking naps in hammocks, soaking up the sun during the day to avoid freezing at night (temps were going down to 44 deg F).
At the Delilah’s
We went hiking on a mountain where UXO (unexploded ordnances) are still there and getting off the path is not recommended. That's when History catches up with us...
At the beginning of the trail, we found swings and we had fun!
Entrance of the trail & Swings on the way up
Then we continued to a viewpoint with a steep climb that took us 1h30. Lana and Naema walked all the way without complaining. The view from the top was WOW, a 360 deg view of the area. Down to our feet, the village, and further south, more mountains with a meander of the Nam Ou river. To the north, the river and numerous rocks sticking out such that we could see where boats stopped on their way to Muang Ngoi. To the east, chains of mountains and the Vietnam border. To the west, another viewpoint on a mountain top right across the bridge.
The view
We left Nong Khiaw after 2 1/2 restful days, a load of memories in the wild. We unexpectedly came across Sylvana and her family, met in Vientiane. We spent a good time with them and met 3 other francophone families travelling from 6 months and up to 5 years! Kids played, parents chatted over beer. An enjoyable social moment exchanging experiences. One family is a French/French Canadian couple having spent 10 years in Quebec before travelling for 5 years including 4 years+ on a boat, with their 2 girls now aged 8 and 10. They are heading back to Quebec City (most likely) next May.
Some other pictures of Nong Khiaw
We were sad to leave such a peaceful place (albeit nights and mornings were unexpectedly freezing cold so we finally got to use our pants and long-sleeved gear) but happy to head back to Luang Prabang for a day and a half. On the van, we saw a travelling family with their 5 year old son that were staying at the same guesthouse as we did in Luang Prabang the first time around. We all ended up staying there again and the kids played together, it was fun. Another inspiring family with lots of projects (travels and jobs) ahead! We wish them good luck in their endeavors.
Heading back to Luang Prabang
Coralie & Salah
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